Leopard Gecko Care Guide for Beginners

About This Guide

Last reviewed June 2026 by Lyle C. — Certified Exotic Pet Specialist. This guide covers everything you need to provide outstanding leopard gecko care from day one.

Leopard Gecko Overview

Leopard geckos (Eublepharis macularius) are native to the rocky, dry grassland and desert regions of Afghanistan, Pakistan, and northwest India. They are among the most beginner-friendly reptiles available, tolerating a wide range of conditions and being notably hardy. Adults reach 7–10 inches and live 15–20 years in captivity.

Enclosure

A 20-gallon long tank (30 by 12 by 12 inches) is the minimum for one adult leopard gecko. A 40-gallon breeder is ideal. Leopard geckos are terrestrial — floor space matters more than height. The enclosure must have a secure screen top for ventilation.

Temperature

Leopard geckos need a clear thermal gradient. Warm side (basking zone): 88–92 degrees Fahrenheit (31–33 Celsius). Cool side: 75–80 degrees Fahrenheit (24–27 Celsius). Night: 68–75 degrees Fahrenheit (20–24 Celsius) — room temperature is fine in most homes. Use an under-tank heat mat covering roughly one-third of the tank floor, connected to a thermostat. The heat mat should be on the warm side only.

Lighting

Leopard geckos are crepuscular and do not require UVB lighting to metabolize calcium. However, a low-level UVB light (5–7 percent) on a 12-hour cycle is now widely recommended for overall health. Always provide a dark hiding area where the gecko can escape from light completely.

Humidity

Keep humidity at 30–40 percent in the main enclosure. The humid hide: a hide box lined with damp sphagnum moss, placed on the warm side. Your gecko will use this when preparing to shed. Mist the enclosure lightly if needed — over-misting causes respiratory issues.

Substrate

Slate tile: excellent heat conduction, easy to clean — highly recommended. Paper towels: safe and cheap. Non-adhesive shelf liner: cheap and safe. Bioactive mix (adults): a topsoil/playsand mix with springtails and isopods. AVOID: calcium sand, walnut shells, repticarpet (catches toes).

Feeding

Leopard geckos are insectivores — they eat only live insects. Diet staples: dubia roaches, black soldier fly larvae, crickets, mealworms (in moderation — high chitin). Treat insects: waxworms, superworms — high fat, offer 1–2 times per week max. Juveniles (under 6 months): insects every day. Sub-adults (6–12 months): insects every 2 days. Adults (12+ months): insects every 3–4 days. Dust feeder insects with calcium powder at every feeding.

The Three Required Hides

Warm hide: on the warm side, for digestion and sleep. Cool hide: on the cool side, for temperature regulation. Humid hide: on the warm side, lined with damp sphagnum moss, for shedding.

Common Health Issues

MBD (Metabolic Bone Disease): rubber limbs, swollen jaw, kinked tail — supplement calcium and ensure UVB. Veterinary care required. Stuck shed: shed caught on toes or eyes — improve humid hide access, soak in warm water. Impaction: no defecation, lethargy, bloated belly — often from loose substrate or cold temperatures. Tail dropping: leopard geckos can drop their tails if grabbed. Keep it clean — it regrows in 4–8 weeks.

Equipment Checklist

20–40 gallon long tank. Under-tank heat mat plus thermostat. Three hides (warm, cool, humid). Shallow water dish — geckos can drown in deep water. Feeding dish. Calcium powder supplement plus multivitamin. Safe substrate (tile, paper towels, or bioactive).