Bearded Dragon Care Guide

About This Guide

Last reviewed June 2026 by Lyle C. — Certified Exotic Pet Specialist. This is the definitive bearded dragon care guide for new owners and experienced keepers alike.

Bearded Dragon Overview

The bearded dragon (Pogona vitticeps) is native to the arid and semi-arid regions of central Australia. They are diurnal (active during the day), omnivorous lizards with calm temperaments and interactive personalities. Adult bearded dragons typically reach 18–24 inches from snout to tail tip. With proper care, they live 10–15 years in captivity.

Enclosure Size

Adult bearded dragons need spacious enclosures. The bare minimum is a 75-gallon breeder tank (48 by 18 by 21 inches), though a 4 by 2 by 2 foot PVC enclosure is the current gold standard. Juveniles can start in smaller 40-gallon breeder tanks but will outgrow them within 4–6 months.

Temperature and Lighting

Bearded dragons require high ambient temperatures and strong UVB lighting. Basking spot: 100–110 degrees Fahrenheit (38–43 Celsius). Hot side ambient: 90–95 degrees Fahrenheit (32–35 Celsius). Cool side: 80–85 degrees Fahrenheit (27–29 Celsius). Night temperature: no lower than 65 degrees Fahrenheit (18 Celsius). A T5 HO UVB tube (Arcadia 12 percent or Zoo Med 10.0) spanning 50–75 percent of the enclosure length is required. Without adequate UVB, bearded dragons cannot metabolize calcium and will develop metabolic bone disease.

Substrate

For young bearded dragons (under 12 months), use paper towels, slate tile, or non-adhesive shelf liner — impaction risk is high with loose substrate. For adults, a mix of playsand and organic topsoil (roughly 50/50) or a commercial bioactive substrate works well. Avoid calcium sand, walnut shells, and repticarpet.

Diet — Juveniles vs. Adults

Bearded dragons are omnivores. The protein-to-plant ratio shifts dramatically with age. Juveniles (0–12 months): 80 percent protein (live insects) / 20 percent vegetables. Feed insects 2–3 times per day. Staples: dubia roaches, black soldier fly larvae, crickets. Adults (12+ months): 20–30 percent protein / 70–80 percent vegetables and greens. Feed insects 2–3 times per week. Staple greens: collard greens, mustard greens, turnip greens, butternut squash. Avoid: spinach, lettuce, avocado, rhubarb.

Supplements

Dust all insects with a phosphorus-free calcium powder at every feeding for juveniles, and 3–4 times per week for adults. Use a multivitamin supplement 1–2 times per week.

Common Health Issues

Metabolic bone disease (MBD): swollen limbs, rubbery jaw, inability to walk — emergency vet visit required. Impaction: bloating, no defecation, lethargy — usually from loose substrate or cold temperatures. Respiratory infection: gaping mouth, mucus, labored breathing — often from overly cool or damp conditions. Yellow fungus: a serious fungal infection requiring aggressive veterinary treatment.

Equipment Checklist

4 by 2 by 2 foot adult enclosure (PVC preferred). T5 HO UVB tube light plus fixture. Basking bulb or ceramic heat emitter plus dimming thermostat. Digital thermometer (two — basking zone and cool side). Heavy-duty food and water dishes. Calcium powder supplement plus multivitamin. Appropriate substrate (age-appropriate). Basking platform or log. Hide or shelter on the cool side.