About This Guide
Last reviewed June 2026 by Lyle C. — Certified Exotic Pet Specialist. This guide covers everything you need to know about keeping a crested gecko (Correlophus ciliatus) healthy and happy in captivity.
Crested Gecko Overview
Once thought extinct, crested geckos were rediscovered in New Caledonia in 1994 and have since become one of the most popular gecko species in the pet trade. They are uniquely appealing: no special lighting required, they eat commercial gecko diet powder, and they cannot climb smooth glass thanks to their specialized toe pads. Crested geckos are nocturnal, arboreal, and live 15–20 years in captivity.
Enclosure
Crested geckos are arboreal — they live in vertical space, not floor space. A tall enclosure is essential. The minimum recommended size is 18 by 18 by 24 inches tall for an adult, though taller is always better. For juveniles, a 12 by 12 by 18 enclosure works until they are large enough for adult housing. Glass terrariums with mesh tops provide excellent ventilation.
Temperature
Crested geckos are comfortable at room temperature — 72–78 degrees Fahrenheit (22–26 Celsius) is ideal. They do not require a basking spot or heat mat. If your room regularly exceeds 82 degrees Fahrenheit, cool the enclosure — crested geckos are heat-intolerant and can suffer heat stress above 86 degrees Fahrenheit.
Humidity
Maintain humidity at 60–80 percent. Mist the enclosure twice daily — once in the morning and once in the evening — to simulate dewfall. Allow the enclosure to dry out partially between mistings. Constant saturation promotes bacterial growth. A humidity gauge is essential.
Diet
Commercial crested gecko diet (CGD) powders — such as Pangea and Repashy — are nutritionally complete and require only the addition of water. Feed CGD every other day, leaving it in the enclosure for 24 hours before removing. Add-ons 2–3 times per week: Repashy or Pangea fruit mix, appropriately sized insects (dubia roaches, crickets) dusted with calcium powder. Never feed baby food or table fruit as a primary diet.
Lighting
Crested geckos do not require UVB — they are nocturnal and get their vitamin D from diet. However, a low-level UVB (5 percent) can support overall health. Maintain a consistent 12-hour light cycle using a simple LED grow light to regulate the gecko circadian rhythm.
Enclosure Setup
Provide multiple horizontal perches at varying heights (bamboo, branches, cork bark). Add live or artificial plants for cover and humidity. Place a coconut hut or similar hide at the top of the enclosure. Use background texture (cork tile, foam panels) for grip on the walls. Floor substrate: paper towel, coconut fiber, or bioactive mix.
Handling
Let crested geckos walk from hand to hand rather than gripping them. Avoid handling for 48 hours after arrival. They can drop their tail if startled — it will not regrow, but it does not affect quality of life. Many adults are calm and comfortable being held for 10–20 minutes.
Shedding
Stuck shed on the toes is the most common issue — it can constrict blood flow and lead to lost toes if ignored. Increase humidity and provide a humid hide. Always check toes after every shed.
Common Health Issues
Stuck shed on toes: increase humidity, soak affected area in warm water. MBD (Metabolic Bone Disease): weak legs, kinked tail — caused by inadequate calcium. Eye issues: crusty or sunken eyes indicate dehydration. See an exotic vet for any serious concerns.
Equipment Checklist
Tall glass terrarium (18 by 18 by 24 inches minimum for adults). Digital hygrometer. Misting bottle or automatic misting system. Crested gecko diet powder plus mixing containers. Feeding ledge or dish. Perches and branches. Live or artificial plants. Coconut hide. LED light timer. Calcium powder supplement.